Riding The Big Wave Beauty
"A big wave is like a beautiful woman, exciting to look at and thrilling to ride."
Buzzy Trent
This is Jaws...an annual event as part of the World Surf League, which occurs roughly each November when conditions are correct...this is the biggest wave in the league, sometimes with 60' waves. In the years I photographed, the waves were usually in the 40-50 height range. This particular year the competition had to be suspended on the first day because the waves were too treacherous, causing 2 broken boards and a dislocated shoulder...it doesn't have to be the size of wave to make it too dangerous, because in this case it was the frequency of the waves so close together.